Pruning can be done for the purposes of controlling insects
and diseases. This type of pruning involves removing small branches
and twigs that occur on limbs in the interior of the plant. The
leaves of the small branches are a haven for scale and other
pests. Thinning out of the growth allows for more efficient spray
coverage. In addition, air circulation is greatly improved, which
also helps prevent pests.
The best blooms are usually produced on vigorous plants. As
plants get large, there are more growing points and a larger
number of flower buds are set per plant. The amount of shoot
growth is reduced and the individual flowers tend to be smaller.
Pruning of camellias should be done after blooming and before
new growth begins. Pruning may be continued throughout the year
in moderation, however, all pruning done after June will be removing
flower buds for the upcoming season. A pocket knife, pruning
shears, loppers, and a small pruning saw - all sharp and in good
condition - are essential tools. Good sanitation is important.
Wash or dip the tools in a mixture of one part Clorox to nine
parts water, or use a fungicide/water solution between cuts.
Do not lay the tools on the ground since this can spread harmful
organisms to the cut surface of the plant. It is a good idea
to give the plant a protective spray of a fungicide following
pruning to prevent the dieback fungus from entering the wounds.
To prune properly, make the cut next to the trunk, do not
leave stumps. Remove weak twigs that have only one weak terminal
bud and no lateral shoot buds. Vigorous shoots will have one
to three well-developed terminal leaf buds and lateral ones on
the side. As a general rule, cut out branches that tend to grow
inward, for they will certainly be shaded out in later years.
At the very least, remove all dead and dying twigs.
Drastic pruning may be necessary to restore an old camellia
to vigorous growth or to reduce it to a size that can be managed.
To prune an old camellia, cut back each branch to a vigorous
shoot, leaving it to grow. If no good shoots can be found, remove
a large portion of the poor branches and wait to see which parts
will put out new growth.
When transplanting camellias, 1/3 to 1/2 of the bush should
be removed. The actual amount to removed should be in proportion
to the amount of root loss during transplanting. This will restore
balance to the plant since some roots are usually lost by being
cut off or injured in transplanting.
Disbudding: Disbudding accomplishes two things: it
concentrates the plant's energy on the development of fewer flowers,
and it regulates the position of the blooms on the branch so
that each may open unhindered.
Some camellias have a tendency to concentrate their bud set
on the terminals of the branches instead of distributing them
fairly evenly. In some cases this results in a mass of buds at
the end of the twig and necessitates drastic action. It is a
fairly common mistake to start disbudding too early in the season,
which simply results in another crop of buds. Disbudding may
be practiced from September to November. A plant with fewer flower
buds will have a tendency to produce later flowers. |
